Nearing the end of Vegetarian June (a month of self-imposed vegetarianism), I was excited to discover that the new branch of burger chain Grill'd in Manuka offered not one, but three vegetarian burger options.
It makes sense - Grill'd is the brainchild of Simon Crowe, who was challenged to start a 'healthy' burger shop after complaining one too many times to his mates that he couldn't find a burger that didn't make him feel heavy and bloated. This shop has since morphed into a significantly sized franchise, with outlets throughout Victoria, NSW, QLD, Canberra and WA.
Despite the backing of this success, it takes a brave soul to open a burger shop within 15 minutes walk of the iconic Brodburger - the former caravan-housed burger joint that continues to draw crazy queues at its new location at Kingston Glassworks.
The fitout of this latest incarnation of Grill'd is all 'industrial chic', and while it feels a tad contrived with its semi-exposed brick walls, black, piped ceilings and mood lighting, it has a comfortable, buzzy vibe.
For all burgers you can choose your bun - either panini, 'traditional', (a light wholemeal roll with sesame seeds) or gluten free. The first of the vegie burgers we try is the Garden Goodess on a traditional bun - a vegie pattie with beetroot, tasty cheese, avocado, salad (lettuce, tomato and onion), relish and a herby mayonnaise. I don't mind the ceoncept of a wholemeal bun, and this one is nice and squishy, though a little dry. Despite its declared 'premium quality' the veggie pattie is pretty bland, and needs the herby mayo to pep it up. There's no obvious sign of the relish, but they've been generous with the salad and it all tastes very healthy and fresh, though I can't help thinking it needs something a little juicy to gel it all together.
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| 'Garden Goddess' with those amazing herby chips and herby mayo |
The 'field of dreams' is probably the better bet - a grilled field mushroom with roasted capsicum, cheese, pesto, salad and the herby mayonnaise. The mushroom juices meld together with the pesto and mayo to keep it moist, while the panini roll is the right amount of crusty.
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| 'Field of dreams' with chips and tomato relish |
Perhaps the biggest drawcard is the chips - flat, fat fingers of soft potato with a crispy, salty, ultra-herby crust. We try two dipping sauces - the herby mayo, which gets a little rich after a while, and a super sweet, chunky tomato relish.
Technically, I can see reasons why Grill'd Manuka should give ol' Brodburger a run for its money - the fact that you don't need to queue to order, that you'll be waiting a fraction of the time for your burger, and that you won't need to hustle for a seat are just the first that spring to mind. But as I bit into my Garden Goddess, I can't help but compare it to that perfect specimen of a vegie burger - that bulging chargrilled-vegie and haloumi delight the Brodburger crew would serving up to the waiting masses as we speak.
Grill'd is easy, friendly and will make for a fun night out, and I'll be back - mainly for the chips - but also to try the extensive range of non-vegie burgers on offer after Vegetarian June draws to a close (every burger deserves a fair chance, after all). To be fair, if it were located elsewhere, the burgers could well be the best in town, but in Canberra's inner south, they'll have to settle for second best.
40 Franklin Street, Manuka
Ph: 6239 6111
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