Morks

‘Fusion’ cuisine is always a bit of a gamble, one that all too often doesn’t pay off. Think confused (or just plain weird) flavour combinations from over-confident chefs trying to run before they can walk, often matched with exorbitant prices.

So, despite the rave reviews from some very reliable foodie sources, I approached Morks – a “contemporary” Thai restaurant in Florey (near Belconnen) – with some trepidation.

Well, this understated restaurant is really a diamond in the rough and a sterling example of why we shouldn’t give up on fusion cuisine just yet. The functional facade suggests nothing of the thoughtful, finessed dishes that lie in wait. Inside, the wooden tables and chairs are fairly well packed into the small floor space and attractive modern Thai art adorns the wall.

A spectacular dish of sizzling prawns ($22) arrives in what looks to be a purpose-made ceramic dish. Each of the seven prawns are nestled in their own hollow, covered with a thick kaffir lime and coconut milk sauce, and covered with an individual terrine –like lid. The result is stunning - the prawns are juicy and infused with a gentle smokiness, while the sauce, which is well balanced with just enough kick, has formed a light crust on top.

The next dish, matter-of-factly entitled ‘scallop and pig’ ($16), makes the most of a tried and true combination by topping golden pan-fried scallops with paper-thin slices of pork ear terrine. It’s served with a delicate coriander root relish and soft, sweet pieces of spring onion.

Meanwhile, crumbed crab balls ($15) feel almost Japanese – light, flaky and delicately flavoured, and served on a tangle of noodles with mayonnaise and pickled ginger.

The standout dish of the night is the pork belly ($27), which has been braised to its meltingly tender best, and is artfully interlaced with spinach and topped with crisp shards of crackling. It sits in a pool of aromatic five-spice-infused reduction and is accompanied by a hard-boiled duck egg and a mound of basil and chilli fried rice. It’s seductively rich, complex and impossible to resist.

Next comes the duck maryland ($25), which has been slow-cooked, then fried – culminating in the ultimate combination of succulent meat and charred, almost caramelised skin.  It’s served on a crispy rice cake with a delicate tomato and lychee red curry sauce.

The only dish that fails to rock worlds is the tofu ($23), stir-fried with chickpeas, vegetables, basil and chilli. It’s acceptable, but unremarkable – a dish you wouldn’t think to question if it wasn’t for the company it keeps.

Just as I was beginning to despair about Canberra’s Asian culinary offerings, along came Morks, and who would have thought it would be tucked away on a nondescript block in Florey (it shares its digs with Domino's Pizza, among others). Well, I don't blame the Florey locals for keeping it under wraps - it might be a little too pricey to be your weekday Thai, but you get serious bang for your buck, and it's bringing some much needed clout to Canberra's Asian food scene.

Morks

Unit 3, 37 Kesteven Street, Florey, 2615

Ph: (02) 6259 0112